How I Built A Projector For My Phone

How I Built A Projector For My Phone

phone projectorWhen I first saw Photojojo’s DIY iPhone projector I was intrigued. The science behind it was sound in my mind, but I wondered how usable it really was. The only way to find out was to make one myself, but not content with simply making another website’s tutorial I decided to change things a bit.
I had to change a few ingredients out of necessity and others out of sheer curiosity. What I ended up with is a slightly easier to use yet still ultimately hobbyist toy for iPhone photographers with nimble fingers and patience. Total cost? $4.50 for a magnifying glass and some duct tape – things you might already have around the house.
Intrigued? Let’s begin!

Things You Will Need for Your Phone Projector

In order to make an iPhone (or any smartphone) projector you will need the following items:
  • Two boxes, one slightly smaller than the other.
  • magnifying glass.
  • A method of standing your phone upright.
  • Black (or dark) duct tapepencil and a craft knife or other sharp cutting object.
  • A copy of the Yellow Pages (or foam mat, or other cutting surface).
  • Patience.
The original brief only used one box. What did differently was to use two – two tissue boxes to be exact – with one slightly smaller than the other, so that it can fit inside. Seeing as tissue boxes are usually very similar in depth, you should be able to find two competing brands with slightly differing widths. This works for any box, as long as it’s a fairly snug fit you will be fine.
phone projector
My reasoning? The original shoebox projector has a rather dismal minimum focusing distance, which means you can’t use it effectively over a short range. Projectors aren’t necessarily designed to be used in such a manner, so this might not seem like a problem at first. However: the further the projector is from a surface, the wider the spread of light becomes. This means that big projections will be very dark in anything other than pitch darkness. Another drawback is that focusing is done by moving the iPhone itself, a fairly fiddly procedure that involves opening up the box. So in order to get more “depth” out of my projector I decided to use two boxes, so that I could move the lens toward and away from the iPhone in order to focus.
build iphone projector
By doing this I actually gained a couple of meters in usability. The resulting projector is longer than most shoeboxes, and while it was a more fiddly construction I think the end results are better given the time invested. Again, you might not have all the materials but ideally are willing to experiment and make-do with what you have around the house. The idea here is to be thrifty and spend as little as possible for the simple fact that spending more money on such a crude construction is not going to yield much of an improvement in the results.
In fact, the results aren’t that great but I still had fun making and using it. If you’re impatient or just want to know how things went you can skip to the end for the finished product. Otherwise, let’s begin!

Method/Madness

The first thing I did was take the smaller box and mark out the circumference of the magnifying glass on it using a pencil. I could only find a huge magnifying glass at my local “mostly $2″ store, and the handle isn’t removable without force so I left it on and made it fit as best I could. This actually helps focus the finish product too.
To ensure that the smaller box would continue to fit I made sure the bottom of the magnifying glass was flush with the bottom of the box.
build iphone projector
Next I cut out the circle I had marked roughly with a craft knife. Take care here, you want to score inside the circle so that the magnifying glass squeezes into the hole evenly, rather than being too loose.
build iphone projector
Once I’d cut the hole I put a few loose pieces of duct tape on the magnifying glass to make fixing easier. Duct tape has the benefit of being very stretchy, which makes it very easy to manipulate.
iphone projector
Magnifying glass loosely in place I taped the remaining edges to seal any holes that light might escape through.
iphone projector
Next I took the big box and unfolded the flaps from one end. I did the same to the small box, except I completely removed the flaps rather than just undoing them. Leaving them in place on the larger box until the end is definitely a good idea.
iphone projector
At this stage I decided it was time to make the inside of the box dark so that light wouldn’t bounce around and detract from the image on the wall. The initial plan was to use black tissue paper (as per the ingredients above), but I soon realised what a mistake I had made and gave up. A matte spray paint would work great here, but they’re at least $4 and I spent $2 on 25 metres of duct tape so I decided to use that instead.
Laying the duct tape in strips was fairly easy, if a little time-consuming. I did this to the entirety of the smaller box and the rear section of the larger box. The result was a very sturdy end product with added friction from the duct tape making a welcome addition to my focusing mechanism, though it wasn’t quite as matte as it could have been for my liking.
Finally it was time to put the phone in place for a quick test. You could use anything from a makeshift paper stand to a paperclip or even blue tack here, but I was lucky enough to have a box ever so slightly smaller than the width of my iPhone 5. This meant I could improve even further on the original projector with a slot into which I could easily slide the phone.
I put everything in place and tested the projector, and then marked where the phone sat best using pencil. I drew a line across the top of the box and made sure it lined up on both sides (so the phone didn’t sit at an angle). I then cut two thin strips slightly thinner than my phone in its case, and popped them out. At this stage the duct tape inside the box helped steady the cut.
I was left with a near-perfect fit that allows me to slide the phone in and out, with easy access to power and headphone connectors.
The iPhone will always correct the perspective when placed “upside down” but in order to project an image you will need your source image to be inverted. This is because the lens on the magnifying glass will invert the image.
There’s a fix for that – Settings > General > Accessibility and turn Assistive Touchon. Now you’ll get a little white dot you can move around the screen. Tap it, choose Device then Rotate Screen and rotate the screen so that it is upside when you place it in your projector. Finally head over to Settings > Brightness & Wallpaper and turn off Auto-Brightness while jacking the brightness of your screen up to the maximum setting.
I put the two boxes together, and folded the flaps on the larger box inwards to create a tight seal. The hole at the top can be covered with card or similar if you want, though you will need some way of using the phone while it is in position.

Results

Unsurprisingly the image quality isn’t great. There are no sophisticated optics or powerful lamps at play here, and while my phone’s screen seems incredibly bright at maximum brightness it only makes a small dent in a dimly-lit room. I have slightly off-white walls which didn’t do wonders for the image, though in pitch darkness visibility was good.
The best results came in the form of a white sheet, as you can see above. I absolutely had to head over to Archive.org and find some black and white stock footage – it felt right. I also tried some safari images from a recent trip to South Africa, but video gave me the best results.
phone projector
It’s not as if the image quality of a moving image is any better than a still image, but it’s the novelty of being able to project a moving image onto something that got me. This is the way amateur and professional filmmakers of years gone by would review reels of film, in dark rooms with flickering images. The ability to project a moving image onto my wall somehow made the whole procedure and any disappointment involved worth it, and the grain only added to the novelty.
Would I recommend you create your own phone projector? Probably, yes. If you want a cheap projector you can only use at night that produces grainy, slightly out of focus images then this is the perfect project for you. It was never going to be perfect, but there’s a certain amount of charm involved here. I’ve had a longstanding goal of filming something professional-looking on my iPhone and now I know exactly what I’m going to watch it on when the time comes.
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BUILD YOUR OWN DIY SPEAKERS OUT OF THEIR CARDBOARD BOX

BUILD YOUR OWN DIY SPEAKERS OUT OF THEIR CARDBOARD BOX

BUILD YOUR OWN DIY SPEAKERS OUT OF THEIR CARDBOARD BOX


You can build our DIY Speakers Kit using the box it comes in, here’s how!
Step 1: Everything you need
whatyouneedspeaker
You will need:
1. DIY Speaker Kit (You can buy this from our shop)
2. The cardboard box the kit came in
3. Scissors
4. Scalpel or craft knive
5. Ruler
6. Felt pen
7. A4 paper (a bit heavier like 120gsm)
8. Double sided tape
9. Double sided sticky pads
Step 2: Cutting an opening for the speaker
box-1 box2
box3 box4
The first thing you need to do is cut an opening where the speaker will sit.
Use your roll of double sided tape to mark a circle on the inside of the box.Make sure to position the opening to the right side of the box to leave enough space for our controls and amplifier.Don’t throw away the cardboard circle you just cut out, you will need it later!
Step 3: Make the speaker membrane
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The special thing about the DIY Speaker is that it is an exciter, rather than a traditional speaker. The exciter can be attached to any surface, which turning that material into a resonating surface and producing  sounds.
Use a sheet of A4 paper mounted behind the opening in the box as shown above.1. Measure the size of the opening, adding another 30 millimetres to its radius.
2. Cut out a square from the sheet of paper using the dimensions as measured (10cm in this case).
3. Attach the square piece of paper with double sided tape to the inside of the box, covering the entire opening.
Step Four: Assembling the exciter
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To improve the sound quality you need to add a buffer between the paper membrane and the actual exciter. This is where the cardboard circle that you cut out and kept earlier comes in handy.1. What you need to do now is to make the cardboard disc a bit smaller by cutting off enough material to give the exciter enough space to sit on. You can play with the radius of the cardboard disc to see how this changes the sound quality. We found that having the cardboard disc with a slightly larger radius than the exciter itself proved to be the best option.2. The exciter comes with tape on one side which you can use to attach it to the cardboard disc.3. Once the exciter is secured on the cardboard disc, use two strips of double sided tape to secure the exciter with the cardboard disc to the inside of the box. Make sure that it sits square in the middle of the paper membrane. If you can’t make out the centre of the opening just hold the box against a light source, to reveal the size of the opening.
Step 5: Securing the amplifier
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With the speaker unit assembled, you need to attach the amplifier to the inside of the box.1. Cut off the left side flap of the box’s lid leaving about 5mm
2. Using double sided sticky pads attach the amplifier with the battery facing the left side of the box and control facing the lid (as shown in the pictures)Make sure to keep the flap you cut off!
Step 6: Cutting openings for control and input
box26 box27 box28 box29
Now you need to cut some opening for the controls and the 3.5mm jack.1. Close the lid of the box and gently press the cardboard against each control to get a slight indentation on the cardboard.
2. You are going to use these indentations to mark where the holes will go.
3. Using a scalpel or craft knife, cut three openings (one for the volume control, one for power switch and one for the input).
4. Once that is done you can close the box and if everything has been done correctly, the holes should line up with our controls.
Step 7: Attaching the stand
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When you place the speaker on its bottom edge, the speaker becomes a bit unsteady. You can easily fix this by adding a little stand using the flap you cut off and kept, from Step 5. Stick the flap on with some double sided tape.
Once this is done we just need to wire everything up and turn on the music!
Step 8: Done!
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Now that you are rocking your own DIY speakers how about decorating it? We kept us minimal by highlighting the controls with a black felt pen.This is only one way to make something cool with our DIY Speaker Kit! There are a lot of different ways to make a speaker using any kind of material as a resonator. Why don’t you try it yourself and share your Speaker with us? We would love to hear about your project!
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